Look no further for the new classic – two decades in, Benjy’s is still a Houston favorite.

In a city where eating out may as well be an Olympic sport (get on that, already, IOC), there’s a certain never-ending quest to find what’s new, what’s hip, what’s hot, what’s trendy, what’s current…whatever isn’t old.

It’s hard to fault the logic: Houston’s on the national culinary radar now – and there are any number of great new spots popping up across the landscape like so many jack-in-the-boxes.

But here’s the thing…just because a spot is more than seven weeks old doesn’t mean it’s a has-been on Houston’s food chain. In fact, often the opposite is true.

Getting Away From and With The Times:

Consider Benjy’s, the Rice Village classic that’s turning 20 this month. This is a place that’s seen the fabric of the city change quite literally under its feet…and it’s a credit to the team that Benjy’s has adapted along with those changes – while managing to remain true to its mission of serving modern, American cuisine.

Brunch Everyday

That ability to adapt and honor its past is evident in two recent developments at the restaurant: the switch up to a seven-day-a-week brunch menu, taking one of the place’s most-loved meals and making it available daily from 11a.m. – 3p.m., and the limited edition 20 Year Anniversary Menu, a stroke of fun and genius that offers up items from the restaurant’s 1995 opening – complete with 1995 pricing.

A Throwback to Opening Day

Drop in before December 15 for that and don’t miss the Ahi Tuna Spring Rolls appetizers as a start. Flaky shells surround plump, seared ahi, mingling with the ginger and snap of Asian Slaw, bean sprouts and a three chilies sauce that offers up a heated kick. The Wild Mushroom and Barley Risotto, an earthy, savory dish that tastes of fall. Porcinis frolic with cranberries, walnuts and broccoli rabe, wrapped up in a creamy sauce hinted with truffle.

“A lot of the anniversary items are new to some of us,” says co-executive chef Geoff Hundt, a Long Beach transplant who comes to the Benjy’s kitchen by way of California and Italy. “It’s fun to have them on the menu and see diners enjoy the memories.”

A Chef’s West Coast Touch

For his part, Hundt’s infused the non-anniversary menu with a variety of seafood dishes, harkening to his West Coast beach upbringing. He’s also adamant that seafood-centric options play into Benjy’s pioneering status as one of the early Houston adopters of fresh, healthy fare.

All of which is why you should be sure to check out the Gulf Coast Cioppino, an Italian seafood concoction that brings to mind bouillabaisse. The fish in the dish changes nightly, depending on what’s available, but the mussels, crab and shrimp that blended with the bright and juicy tomato saffron broth the night we tried it were fantastic. Bonus: the grilled bread accompaniment that was perfect for dipping.

What’s For Dessert?

Looking to end the meal on a high note, you might think about the anniversary menu offering of chocolate seduction, a chocolate-meets-chocolate-meets-chocolate confection of dark chocolate Grand Marnier truffle, white chocolate brandy ganache, milk chocolate-kahlua mousse and a black current sauce. We opted for the house-made sorbets and gelatos, and fell in love with the miso-honey-peanut butter combination.

Raising a Glass to Their Beginnings

Giving a broad nod to its 1990s heritage, Benjy’s has also infused its bar menu with a little 1995 glamor. Each of the drinks prepared to recognize the anniversary are named after quotes or titles of movies that premiered in 1995. There’s the sweetly layered “Houston We Have a Problem,” a tower of cassis, simple syrup, housemade pumpkin spice liqueur and vanilla vodka. If that gives you a toothache, cut the sweet with the side of cream that comes with the drink. Looking for something fresh and clean? That’s the Gangsta’s Paradise, Dripping Springs gin and fresh lemon and lime juice, ribboned with cucumber and saffron.

All of that is more than enough to make you want to relive those heady days before we’d heard of Y2K, the bursting tech bubble or the Kardashians. But an even better reason to reacquaint yourself with Benjy’s is to remind yourself who was doing great work on Houston’s culinary scene before the scene became what it is. Who says history’s not worth repeating?

Benjy’s in the Village

• Location: 2424 Dunstan, Houston, TX 77005
• Phone: 713-522-7602
• Hours: Sunday to Monday 11am to 9pm; Tuesday to Thurday 11am to 10pm; Friday to Saturday 11am to 11pm
• Reservations: Click here to make reservations

http://365thingsinhouston.com/2015/12/07/benjys-rice-village-20-year-anniversary-houston/